(taking a walk around your view-finder) Scan the top, sides and
bottom of your view-finder Your main subject should nearly touch
these boundaries. If it doesn't, move closer to the subject.
SUNNY f16- On a bright sunny day, set your aperture on 16 and
your shutter speed as close as
possible to your films ISO rating This will produce properly exposed
pictures with all films and all film speed ratings.
This is one of the best photographs I've ever seen, I don't know
the photographers name if someone does
please email me the name and I'll give a credit.
and Sun at the North Pole. A scene most of us will may
never get to see, so take a moment and enjoy. It is the sunset
at the North Pole with the moon at its closest point.And,
you also see the sun below the moon. An amazing photo.
Subject: North Pole Sunset-Moonrise Together
(Update, this is photoshoped)
FULL MOON f11- For proper exposure of a full moon, set your aperture
on 11 and your shutter speed as close to your films ISO rating
HALF MOON f8- Use the above rule for shutter speed
and use an aperture of 8 for pictures of a half moon.
QUARTER MOON f5.6- Use the above rule for shutter
speed and use an aperture of 5.6 for pictures of a quarter moon.
SUNSETS - Meter the area of sky directly above
sun and use this setting as the basis for exposure. Using one
f-stop less light will produce the effect of a picture taken one
half hour later.
PHOTOGRAPHIC GRAY CARD- When the camera meters a mid-tone the
scene will he properly exposed.
FILM SPEED- Use the lowest film speed (ISO) you can to preserve
sharpness, color saturation and reduce grain. That also goes
for digital cameras when you can set your ASA.
BRACKETING - Expose for a mid-tone then adjust exposure to
+1 and -1. For extreme lighting go one exposure step more
"RULE" OF THIRDS - Place your center of
interest, vertically or horizontally, at the 1/3 and 2/3 points
in your viewfinder for a stronger composition.
COMPOSITION - When the word rule is used, substitute
un-rule, for there are no rules, only considerations.
CLEANING FILTERS AND LENSES- A well washed 100%
cotton T-shirt is softer and more scratch resistant than photographic
lens tissue. To clean filters and lenses simply "HUFF"
(breathe on the lens until it fogs) and wipe clean.
PROTECTIVE FILTER- Always leave this filter on for
FILM- Establish the amount of film that you think
you will use, then multiply by a factor of two. When working for
a client multiply by a factor of three. (or digital film)
PALM READING- To select an average tone exposure
reading, "read" the palm of your hand with your thumb
extended. Then, using your thumb up reminder, open up your aperture
(smaller number) one stop.
FOCUS- Focus 1/3 of the way into the picture and
use f-16 for the greatest depth of field.
FILTERS- When using an 80A blue (outdoor to indoor)
filter, open 2 stops when using a hand-held exposure meter.
PHOTOGRAPHING A CAR - A three-quarter front view
makes the most effective photograph for selling a car (Paul Douglas,
PHOTOGRAPHING LANDSCAPES - Assume that a dramatic
"photogenic" effect will rarely last more than one hour.
FREE-LANCE RULE OF TWO - If you want a merely adequite
return on an untried free-lance photography project, decide what
you think you can get away with charging, and then double it.
The final expense and aggravation will exceed your original estimate
by a factor of two.
FREE-LANCING - Free-lance photographers should
expect to put in one un-billable hour for
every billable hour.
SHOOTING FILM - One good shot per roll of film is
a good shoot. or a flash card, (this is getting out dated).
TAKING PICTURES INTO THE SUN - When back-lighting
is apparent, open the aperture an extra one and a half stops.
SETTING YOUR RATES - Free-Lance artists should
determine their hourly rate by dividing their annual income requirements
by one thousand (Mike Rider, art director).In other words the
avarage amount of billable hours is 1000 hours per year, if you
need to make $50,000 a yera you will have to charge $50 per hour.
BETTER EXPOURES - If you are using negative film
and can't take several exposures, overexpose the metered value
by one stop. You will have a better chance of recording your information.
This won't work with digital cameras.
DOUBT - When in doubt open your aperture one stop.
When in serious doubt open two stops.
GOOD COMPOSITION - Mentally divide vour view-finder
into four areas. Look into each area and eliminate anything that
HEADS - Look at the top of vour view-finder and
ask yourself if heads are included. If you don't ask yourself
this, then 50% of the time heads will be partially or totally
FEET - Look at the bottom of your view-finder and
ask yourself if feet are included. If you don't ask yourself this,
then 50% of the time feet will be missing.
HORIZON LINE - A picture taken at a slight angle
to the horizon will look out of balance somewhat like a painting
which isn't hung straight on a wall. Look in your view-finder
and ask vourseif if the horizon line is parallel to the top and
bottom of your view-finder. If you don't do this, the horizon
line in your pictures will be tilted 90% of the time.
WILDLIFE - Final image size and sharpness will decrease
proportionately as the desirability for the picture increases.
To reverse this effect, look through the view-finder and ask yourself
how many times you could stack your subject on top of itself,
moving from the the bottom of the frame to the top. If the number
is greater than four your picture will lack impact. Move closer
to your subject or use a stronger lens.
CENTER - There is a natural tendency to place all
subjects in the center of the picture, known as the "bulls-eye
syndrome." Place the main subject or center of interest anywhere
but the center of the picture. The center is a very important
place in a picture, however, when the subject is placed in the
center it becomes so powerful that nothing else can compete with
it (Roger Baker, art teacher, Clark College).
GOOD COMPOSITION - When cropping a print, use four
sheets of typing paper, one for each side of the print. Move the
paper to eliminate unwanted parts of the picture. The result will
be good Composition.
BLUE SKY - A clear north blue sky is a middle tone.
An exposure reading using the blue sky as a source will produce
a proper daylight exposure.
WATERFALLS - Use an average exposure reading as
a base then reduce the exposure by one f-stop for detail in bright
FOCUS - If your subject has eyes, focus on them.
More photo tips page 2